GOSHEN -- Fritz Huser worried that no one would show up on their first day of business at the County Seat Cafe.
She and her husband at the time, Lee, opened at 124 W. Jefferson St. around Labor Day 1984. She'd worked 25 years at Plain & Fancy nearby when they took over the Sunshine Inn.
After cleaning the grease and dirt, they opened a cafe where every one of the 25 seats had a view of the grill.
Someone in town gave her a bacon weight for good luck. She made baked hamburger steak with mushroom gravy, knowing that you get one chance to make a first impression.
The County Seat was busy that day and nearly every day since.
It's one of the best breakfast places, and perhaps the best, in Elkhart County.
It's a place where college students, construction workers and city officials sit alongside each other. Where the regulars are already arriving when open sign is flipped at 4:30 a.m. Where people read the morning paper and discuss what's there and the gossip that isn't.
The County Seat is celebrating its 25th anniversary today with its original menu and prices. A slice of pie will be no more than $1.25 and a cheeseburger will be $1.50. A plate of eggs, sausage and toast will be $3.
But even 25 years later, the prices aren't much higher. It's pretty easy to get coffee and a plateful of hot breakfast yumminess for less than $5.
Huser often worked 80- or 90-hour weeks to feed her clientele breakfast and lunch six days a week.
"I'm working part-time now," she said. That means it's only 50 to 60 hours a week.
Her son, Tim, bought the business from her last July. Now he's the one who has the business on his mind constantly. They work alongside each other, Fritz in the kitchen and Tim at the grill, mostly peacefully. It's challenging sometimes. "We're both stubborn and we both want to do it our own way," Tim said.
He's made a few changes but hasn't messed much with his mother's recipe for success. His clientele want hearty food that can sustain a person putting on a roof. "I can't have spinach salad and tofu burgers. No one would eat it," he said.
He tried to change sausage suppliers and the customers told him they didn't like it. He continues to offer strawberry jam made from scratch even though it's expensive to do so year-round. The homemade bread that wasn't on the menu for many years, but regulars knew of, now includes whole wheat in addition to cinnamon raisin and white.
Perhaps the best addition to the menu is the oatmeal pancake, which can be ordered instead of the toast. It's a hearty pancake with a natural heft and sweetness. The recipe came from the wife of a regular customer, Fritz said.
My longtime favorite -- and I know I'm not alone -- is half a Fritz's Special, a scramble of potatoes, sausage and eggs. I get sausage gravy on the side and use it sparingly. You can get a full order, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you plan to bale hay or roof a house. It's a lot of food.
One of the reasons I love the County Seat is it has options for seating and sausage. Since she bought the building in 1991, Fritz has added seats in a number of rooms, giving options for privacy if you want. It's also good that 100 people now fit in the restaurant.
On the pork front, the County Seat has baked sausage on Saturdays and patties or links all the time.
And we haven't even talked about the cinnamon rolls (good) and pie (very good) that Huser bakes on a daily basis, but also does more of around the holidays.
Tim and Fritz said they hope the day comes when she can have her own bakery and put out a cookbook with her recipes.
For now, she's helping maintain the successful restaurant she started and built.
"I had no idea it would ever be this," Fritz said.
It's a great restaurant. We're blessed with good cafes and diners in Elkhart County, and this is a gem. Congratulations on 25 years, Fritz and Tim.
QUICK BITES
* The Panther Pit Gyros & Subs, 109 S. Elkhart St., Wakarusa, opened July 16, serving sandwiches and baklava, according to owner Lisa Weldy. In addition to gyros and subs, the shop has Italian beefs and hot dogs. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, 11 to 6 Saturday.
* Perfect Pizza, 1038 W. Bristol St., Elkhart, opened the beginning of August. The restaurant's offerings include pizzas with up to 2 pounds of toppings, breadsticks and sandwiches, according to owner Brian King. Delivery is available within a 21/2 mile radius. Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday and 11 to 10 Friday and Saturday. Phone: 206-1300
* Middlebury Hills House of Pancakes, 104 U.S. 20, Middlebury, opened after new owners purchased the former Mediterranean Garden. Hours are 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday and Saturday, 5:30 to 10 Friday and 6 to 3 Sunday. Phone: 825-8075
* Wings Etc. will celebrate 15 years of business, starting in Mishawaka and expanding more recently to Elkhart and Goshen, with 35-cent wings and $3 beers today through Sept. 7, according to manager Jeremy Hartzell.
* Potawatomi Zoo in South Bend is having a Zoo Brew event from 7 to 10 p.m. Sept. 12. More than 50 beers from nine regional brewers and distributors will be featured. Tickets are $30, $25 for zoological society members and $20 for designated drivers. Several restaurants will provide food and the band Half-Pint Jones will play. Information: 288-4639 or www.potawatomizoo.org
* Two southwestern Michigan wineries are having harvest parties. Both cost $10 or less per person but require tickets in advance or at the gate. Round Barn Winery & Brewery's event in Baroda is 2 to 7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Information: (800) 716-9463. Lemon Creek Winery, Berrien Springs, will have an event noon to 6 p.m. Sept. 12. Information: (269) 471-1321
* T.J.'s Corner Café at Baldwin and Johnson streets, Elkhart, will be offering all-you-can-eat fish and fries from 5 to 8 p.m. Friday. A dinner will be $7.95, according to co-owner Sal Maldonado.
IF YOU GO
What: County Seat Cafe
Where: 124 W. Jefferson St., Goshen
Fare: American cafe food, including traditional hot breakfast
Hours: 4:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5 to 11 Saturday
Details: Credit cards accepted; no smoking; handicapped accessible, but bathroom access can be tight.
Phone: 534-1348
E-mail: MapleLeafVentures@Live.com