When I heard that Rise 'n Roll Bakery was sold to new owners and was moving, I didn't hypventilate.

But I did worry about what it would do to my favorite doughnut in the world: A yeast-raised doughnut topped with caramel icing and coated in cinnamon powdered sugar.

Orvin and Viola Bontrager started the bakery next to their home in 2001. The bakery had pies, cinnamon rolls and breads but also offered unique items, including the world's best doughnut, a bread packed with smoked sausage and cheese, and nut brittles that some fans refer to as "Amish crack."

The business grew to include markets in Chicago and a deal with Hudsonville Ice Cream that landed its chocolate-covered cashew crunch in an ice cream flavor.

The bakery next to their home was quaint, with the Amish girls who worked for them singing as they mixed dough, filled pie shells or stirred butter, sugar and nuts in the perfect way to create the crunches. The Bontragers preached and practiced customer service that's exquisite and rare, and their employees did too.

So the new building at the corner of 1150 W. and U.S. 20, just into LaGrange County and 3 <00BD> miles west of Shipshewana, gives the business a better chance to first keep up with demand and then grow even more.

"In order for this business to grow, they had to let it go," said Tom Hart, the new general manager of Rise 'n Roll. He's worked alongside the Bontragers for 1 <00BD> years and now, like them, works for Justin and Tabbi Bratt, the Middlebury couple who bought it. According to Hart, the Bratts were customers who invested and are letting him and the Bontragers operate the business with a lot of freedom.

"I enjoy coming to work every morning," Bontrager said.

Hart had several vans and drove Amish for eight years. He shut down his successful business and went to work for Rise 'n Roll. He says this is the only job for which he would have done that.

Making more of something doesn't necessarily improve the quality of it and often has the opposite effect, particularly when it comes to food. But from what I've tasted, there's no cause for alarm here. The baked goods are just as good and may even be improving a bit with some technological advances.

Since opening July 4, employees are using some of the same equipment and some new to create yumminess. The employees now include Old Order Mennonite young women alongside the Amish ones. Amber Hart, Tom's daughter, is using her food service experience to oversee a deli.

The deli offers a few additional breakfast items, including sausage gravy for either from-scratch biscuits or a piece of the sausage roll. At lunch, cold meat sandwiches are offered on fresh bread and put alongside a salad, chips and a drink for just $5.85. Soft and hard ice cream, including the flavor with the crunch made there, is available. And the lemonade is fresh-squeezed. All of those aspects will be on display during a grand opening Friday and Saturday, when a 10 percent discount will also be in effect.

The work force is twice as big. The new deli and bakery also has meat, cheese, bulk foods and fresh produce.

But what hasn't changed are the customer service and quality of the food.

Orvin and Viola Bontrager are humble and hard-working. That ethic is apparent throughout the business. And the way they treat people is practiced by everyone who works for Rise 'n Roll. The Bratts and Harts are carrying forward what the Bontragers started.

Hart wonders how the business could accommodate more customers on the busy Shipshewana/Middlebury tourism days of Tuesdays and Wednesdays and on weekends. "The response has just been phenomenal," he said.

My hunch is they'll figure out a way and that many, many more customers will find out about Rise 'n Roll.

QUICK BITES

* Comings and goings: Project 112, 112 S. Main St., Nappanee, is closed and apparently being replaced by a pizza shop. Also, Mediteranean Garden at the intersection of U.S. 20 and S.R. 13, Middlebury, has been replaced by a restaurant called Middlebury Hills House of Pancakes. Also, Sundaes & More has opened farther down U.S. 20 in the small commercial shopping center at Spring Valley Drive.

* Das Dutchmen Essenhaus is having an event Sept. 18-19 combining crafting, cooking and friendship for people and their dolls. "Girls in the Kitchen -- Friendship Party" is being planned for that Friday night and Saturday morning to include a make-it and take-it craft class, special meal and program for girls and their favorite doll. Tickets are $15 for adults, $12 for children. Information: (574) 825-9741 or www.essenhaus.com

IF YOU GO

What: Rise 'n Roll Bakery & Deli

Where: U.S. 20 and 1150 W., Middlebury

Fare: Baked goods, nut brittles, bulk foods, meat, cheeses and now breakfast and lunch items

Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, 7 to 5 Saturday

Details: Handicapped accessible; some seating available in retail area; no smoking; credit cards accepted

Grand opening: Friday and Saturday, including specials and a 10 percent discount

Phone: 825-4032

On the Web: www.risenrollbakery.com